Ο τοπικός πολιτισμός της περιοχής των Τζουμέρκων
Υπόμνημα:

The Hinterland’s Garments

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The garment was part of the hinterland community’s material culture. In the past the garment was symbolic to the local environment. The collective was made up of similar social and economic groups that didn’t care for a self-consuming economy and operated on the foundation of interdependencies shaped by the communal spirit. It was forbidden to display excesses of wealth and luxury.

The people of Kalarrytes provide a classic case of a community whose identity is based on the collective memory of silver artisan crafts. The community’s wide range of commercial activities allowed for a symbolic display of wealth through women’s jeweled garments, but regardless any form of boasting ran counter to the collective ethos and the community’s customary yet unwritten rules. The women’s only precious garments were two silk head scarves that they’d wear on festive days. It was forbidden for women to wear embroidered dresses, cotton or silk fabrics, shawls and furs. For a woman to violate this rule was equivalent to dishonoring her husband.

But the men in turn also avoided all unnecessary display of wealth. If anyone dared to wear gold embroidered or expensive garments they’d lose all appreciation of their countrymen. Because of the trade’s coming of age within these communities the man’s garments demonstrated his links with the West. In turn these trends impacted the industry and skills sets. “One strange thing about our village was the so-called shoe shop. There were two of them. One manufactured traditional footware, known as τσαρούχια (tsarouhia), for farmers and their families. The other made European-style leather shoes for tailors who also wore European clothes.”

The everyday female clothing items in Tzoumerka, as demonstrated in the example of Matsouki and the surrounding settlements, was the wool skirt or sleeveless dress with an embroidered hem, a wool coat woven on a loom, a short jacket, wool socks and traditional footwear (tsarouhia). Age determined the color of the female skirt. The skirts of younger women had a crimson colored pattern at the hem. For middle-aged women the pattern was a light blue color while the older women wore a dark blue fabric with a velvet finish. The formal attire was a long dark dress with black embroidery, a vest, a black smock embroidered with flowers, a silver filigree belt and subtly embroidered wool socks. The head scarf was black embroidered with tassels using silk thread and tightly tied with a silver or gold pin.

The everyday male clothing items consisted of black pants, also known as μπουραζάνα (bourazana), a plaid shirt, a black wool vest, a wool hat, a jacket and traditional footwear (tsarouhia). The formal male attire was made from the best quality wool and consisted of white pants, an embroidered vest, a white cotton shirt and a jacket. [1] In Matsouki from the 1930s onwards the men’s clothing items had changed. This was especially the case for those working outside the community. They began wearing wool European-style pants woven ​​on the loom and the stitching was handled by the local tailors.

In addition to long vest-like dresses they’d also make short vests that were open at the front. Underneath the vest the women wore thick wool skirts. The vest-like dress was a required clothing item. It was considered shameful for a woman to go out without it. It was as if she were naked. It was made of wool with a thin smooth flat fabric woven on the loom and then finely sewn by street tailors. Local people also made thick wool skirts where the final touches were sewn by hand. The smock was also a requirement. A woman without a smock could not be seen in public.

In Matsouki, until the mid-20th century and as demonstrated in the photographs of that period the groom’s wedding attire included a long vest-like dress, a short vest, a shirt, socks, traditional footwear (tsarouhia) and a gun belt. The woman’s bridal wear included a satin dress, a smock, a belt, a scarf, socks and low heeled shoes made of patent leather. From the 1950s onwards the official bridal wear for women would be replaced with the white silk dress and veil and for men the suit would become the new wedding attire.